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Yoga and Costa
Rica
seem made for each other |
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Yoga in Costa Rica
Costa Rica and yoga seem made for each other. Maybe it’s the
country’s slower pace, the heat, or the air supersaturated
with oxygen given off by dense rainforests. Whatever the reason,
it seems easier to breath here, to stretch, and to quiet the chatter
in your mind.
Nowadays in Costa Rica, yoga retreats and studios are cropping
up everywhere you look. Which makes sense in this land so
fertile that even the rural fences—stripped branches stuck
in dry ground—can’t help but bloom.
The three major yoga retreats in Costa Rica are: Nosara
Yoga Institute, on the Pacific coast,
the most serious teacher-training spot and within walking distance
of good surfing beaches; Pura Vida Spa,
high in the Central Valley and a short ride from the San Jose
airport, the most luxurious of three, with massage and spa treatments
available alongside daily yoga classes; and Samasati
Nature Reserve, perched just above
the Caribbean coast and the most peaceful and remote of the
trio.
Below I’ll go into greater detail about each of these spots,
and also describe a few other studios. This short list, of course,
barely scratches the surface of the burgeoning and ever-changing
yoga scene in Costa Rica.
Also try the Costa
Rica Association of Yoga Teachers (ASOYOGACR) for more
information.
Name: NOSARA YOGA INSTITUTE
Web site: http://www.nosarayoga.com/
Location: In the small beach town of Nosara, on
the Pacific coast, halfway down the Nicoya Peninsula (Guanacaste
Province)
Getting there: Either fly to San José and
rent a car and drive (a five or six hour drive, and a great trip
but not for the faint of heart—it’s easy to get lost,
and some of the roads aren’t paved) or fly in a small plane
from San José to Nosara.
Type of yoga practiced: Interdisciplinary.
“Though we’ve had training in many styles, we’re
not jumping on board any specific style—no one system has
all the answers,” says cofounder Amba Stapleton
Summary: The most serious teacher training yoga
center in the country, Nosara Institute was founded in 1994 by Americans
Amba and Don Stapleton. Both have taught yoga for decades.
Amba is co-creator of Pranassage Practitioner Training (formally
known as Yogassage); Don has a Ph.D. in Art Education, is the author
of Self Awakening Yoga, and was director of Kripalu Institute
in Massachusetts for 19 years. At the Institute, January and
July are devoted to month-long, Yoga Alliance-approved, 200-hour
teacher training programs; students often stay at the nearby Hotel
de Paris. Other months there are shorter and more diverse programs
on offer, like a 50-hour “Self-Awakening Yoga Retreat."
Throughout most of the year there are drop-in classes for tourists
and locals, including a popular “Yoga for Surfers” class.
Of the three major retreat centers in the country, Nosara is the
one closest to the ocean, and the nearest beach is known as a good
place to learn to surf.
Who comes here: Mostly people from the U.S.
and Canada; lots from New York and California.
Capacity: They often have around 60 students for
their month-long teacher training sessions in January and July;
other times of the year there are usually fewer people.
Caveat: Because there are no accommodations or
food facilities in the Institute itself, students stay in nearby
hotels or rented houses and eat in restaurants. Those looking
for a retreat—where you never leave the community and where
you have little contact with the outside world—probably wouldn’t
choose Nosara.
From Alma Stapleton, co-founder: “We want
to create creative teachers, using yoga as the avenue. Yoga’s
not the be-all end-all. It’s a way of keeping people
hooked into their creative juices, to keep them alive.”
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| Lunch at Pura Vida |
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Name: PURA VIDA SPA
Web site: http://www.puravidaspa.com/
Location: 7 k north of Alajuela (near San
José and the Juan Santamaría International Airport)
Getting there: It’s close to the international
airport, and there’s an airport pickup service. If you’re
driving on your own, get very explicit directions—it’s
easy to get lost.
Type of yoga practiced: Depends on the featured
teacher. When there’s no featured teacher, the general
program, called Mind Body Spirit (MBS) is hatha-based and geared
towards the beginner.
Summary: A centrally-located yoga retreat with
spectacular views of the Central Valley and beautifully landscaped
grounds, Pura Vida also has high-quality massage (including watsu
in a newly-built pool) and spa treatments. With their package
deals you can combine yoga with sightseeing and other activities.
Sometimes the place is taken over by a celebrity teacher or author
like Baron Baptiste, Ana Forrest, or Eckhart Tolle, and you sign
up with him or her rather than with Pura Vida itself (see web site
for schedule). Founded by Pauline and Michael Clegg (the latter
is known as Satyam Nadeen, author of From Onions to Pearls);
they bought a coffee plantation in 1985 with a few buildings on
the property, and opened for guests several years later.
Who comes here: When I was there it was mostly
Americans, mostly women, and mostly professional and well-traveled
individuals. Ages ranged from early thirties to mid sixties.
Clientele varies according to which teacher is being featured.
Capacity: Up to 100 guests for special events
but usual capacity is
around 60.
Caveats: There’s a bit of the walled compound
feel to the place—razor-wired fences surround the grounds. This
is par for the course in Costa Rica, especially in the well-populated
Central Valley, but it does add to the sense of the place being
in but not of Costa Rica.
From Rakesh, the marketing manager: "Our
commitment is to promote wellness through nature. Wellness in mind,
body and spirit is our emphasis here. We offer a variety of retreats
and workshops all with the intent of making us whole and raising
the level of consciousness in the world. Our wellness center offers
a menu of treatments ranging from highly focused modalities to indulgent
spa treatments. All our therapists have the ability to be present
and loving with their touch, which opens the gates to healing."
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| Samasati Nature Reserve |
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Name: SAMASATI NATURE RESERVE
Web site: http://www.samasati.com/
Location: Near Hone Creek and Puerto Viejo, on
Costa Rica’s Caribbean (east) coast
Getting there: Fly to San Jose and then by light
plane to Puerto Viejo, or rent a car (make sure it’s four-wheel
drive to get up Samasati’s long, steep driveway) and make
the 3 hour drive. Or take the bus from San Jose to Hone Creek
or Puerto Viejo and Samasati will come pick you up.
Type of yoga practiced: Interdisciplinary
Summary: The smallest and most remote of the three
major Costa Rican retreats described here, Samasati definitely lives
up to the ‘nature reserve” part of its name. It’s
a lush and peaceful place where you might see a troop of howler
monkeys on your way to morning yoga. In 1994, Italians Massimo Monti
and Sylvia and Chiara Zani, along with Argentine Billy Gonzales,
pooled their resources to buy 250 acres of rainforested ridge top
near the Caribbean coast town of Hone Creek. The four founders
met at an ashram in India, and they wanted to create in Costa Rica
a meditative spot that blended with the natural environment and
also provided work opportunities for the local community. Three
years later Samasati received its first guest. Since then
it has hosted individual visitors and opened its doors to teachers
who rent the place out for a week or so, bringing their own students
with them. Accommodations are pleasant and airy all-wood bungalows
with an Asian-inspired sense of design and simplicity. There are
also a handful of private houses on the property, which can be rented
out, and the reserve is selling off pieces of its land to individuals
who want to build their own homes.
Caveats: It can feel a bit isolated up on the
hill here, a feeling some may welcome. Everything here is
on a smaller scale, so while, for instance, Pura Vida may have a
dozen massage therapists on staff, Samasati has one, and she may
not be available at the time you’d like a massage.
Who comes here: Visitors are mostly from the U.S.
and Canada.
Capacity: 45 – 50, when bungalows and the
rental houses are all at capacity.
From Lucy Huneault, Manager: “Because we
are small and don’t want to grow bigger, we are really a family. We
give lots of attention to our clients Whether they’re
groups or individuals, we will do everything to give them what they
need. I always say to people, when I come down these stairs
into the restaurant, I don’t want to have numbers on people’s
heads. I know the name of each client staying in each bungalow. This
is very important, and you can only do that if you’re small.”
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| Downward
Dog, Costa Rica Style |
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A Few Other Options
Name: Pachamama (http://www.pachamama.com/default.asp)
Location: On the Nicoya peninsula, inland from Nosara. A 6-hour
drive from San José
Summary: A secluded “eco-village” that draws people
from around the world. Not a yoga retreat or studio per se, but
they do offer yoga classes; they also rent out wooden casitas by
the month and for shorter stays; 3 vegetarian meals per day are
included in the price.
Name: Montezuma Yoga at Los Mangos Hotel
Location:
Montezuma
Web site: www.montezumayoga.com
Phone in Costa Rica: 506-642-0076
Summary: Hatha-vinyasa classes
(and some week-long retreats) taught in a thatch-roofed, open-air
pavilion on the grounds of Hotel Los Mangos. The hotel is a few miles south of Montezuma, right
across the (unpaved) street from the beach, and a short walk from
one of my newest favorite restaurants—Playa de los Artistas,
where you can enjoy excellent Italian food while digging your
toes into the sand and looking out over the waves.
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| Yoga instructor Stefano
Allegri |
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Name: Oceanfront Yoga Shalu at Flor Blanca Resort
Web site: http://www.florblanca.com/
Location: Santa Teresa (Mal País)
Summary: This very upscale beachfront hotel has a small open-air
studio where ashtanga, vinyasa, and pilates classes are taught by
Nancy Goodfellow (who is also the resort’s dessert chef) and
Stefano Allegri.
Name: DoceLunas Hotel and Spa
Web site: www.docelunas.com
Location: Jacó
Summary: Classes and retreats at this small yoga studio perched
just above a nice hotel on the outskirts of a popular Pacific coast
resort town.
Name: Shooting Star Yoga
Web site: http://www.yogapavones.com/
Location: Pavones
Summary: Amy Khoo and Alexander Outerbridge teach classes and give
retreats in a beautiful open-air pavilion with a view of the beach.
Alexander also owns a surf shop in town.
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